Dryer Q and A

Dishwashers - Refrigerators - Ovens and Stoves - Dryers - Washing Machine 1 - Washing Machine 2 - Gas Appliances

Q. My dryer dries fine, but clothes and dryer smell like motor oil after running. Is this fixable or do I need a new dryer?

A. Someone might have oiled the rollers and idler pulley with too much oil, or got oil in some place it is not supposed to be. Or it could be the motor getting hot and smelling oily when the dryer runs. Older motors leak oil from their bearings when they get hot. You might want to take a look inside and see what is causing the smell.

Q. I have a dryer problem: clothes take a long time to dry. The lint trap is clean. I have never cleaned my vent system and it has been in this house for approximately three years. After I unplug my vent system, it works fine. My vent is on the second floor and there is a metal pipe 20 feet long that goes through the walls to outside. What should I buy to fix it if that is the problem?

A. The fact that the dryer works fine when the venting system is removed or disconnected indicates the venting system or ducting is restricted or clogged, and/or the flapper inside the ven'ts exhaust hood is not opening, stuck closed or not opening fully.

You may have to disconnect all or some of the ducting to clean it. How that is accomplished is based on how the metal ducting is installed. Lint cleaning snakes that you push through the metal ducting can be purchased, if needed. It is always advisable to clean the entire exhaust venting system every two years or during any dryer maintenance, connection or repairs. Based upon the current situation, duct cleaning is going to be needed every two years to maintain good drying with the machine. Buying the cleaning snake may be a good idea, for that ducting system you currently have there. You should also check to make sure the vent meets your manufacturer's recommendations. The average recommendation for 4-inch rigid metal ductwork is 25 feet or less in total length. For the ones that run horizontal, subtract 5 feet for each elbow, i.e., if you have three elbows, the max length is 10 feet total. Vertical runs also shorten the max length. Elbows and vertical runs reduce the air velocity and allow the lint to drop out and further slow the airflow down. If you still cannot meet these specs, you may consider a duct booster fan to maintain the proper air velocity, but these are expensive.

Q. I have a clothes dryer with a buzzer that goes off repeatedly when the cycle is complete. It is loud and obnoxious and drives me crazy. I'd like to rip it out. I've called a repairman who doesn't know how to do it, and the manufacturer won't tell me. Short of a sledgehammer, is this buzzer amputation something I might accomplish?

A. Sure you can. Unplug the drier, open up the console area, disconnect the wires to the buzzer, and tape them off. Put the console back together, plug the drier back in and enjoy the peace and quiet.

Q. I have a Whirlpool gas dryer. It ran great until last night when it ran all night with no heat. There is not access panel on this model to remove to see if the flame is glowing or not. You can remove the front panel, but prepare yourself to catch the drum which will fall off. You can remove the back panel, but there is no way to see if the gas is even getting to the burner. Any suggestions?

A. Since you have already replaced the glow coil, the gas valve may be defective. Below are almost all the additional possibilities, which can cause the lack-of-heat condition you are describing.

Defective Gas Valve:
Remove the entire unit as an assembly. Take the entire assembly to your local appliance parts store for testing. Gas valves are not repairable. Replacement is the only option if defective. CAUTION: Do not attempt to repair the gas valve! This is a non-repairable item.

Dryers with touch pad controls use electronic computerized circuit boards. The entire circuit board could be removed and taken to the local appliance parts dealer for testing and or replacement.

Flame Sensor:
This part is located on the burner housing. If it's defective, it will cause the glow coil to not function or cause the problem you're describing. You can test this part with a continuity tester or an ohmmeter. Do not solely rely on this test to prove the part is functioning correctly. The only proof positive method to be sure the part is functioning correctly, is to carefully remove the part and have the local appliance parts store person do the testing.

A Fusible Link:
Check for continuity across this part. It will be located in the exhaust's venting system prior to the discharge outlet. If there is no continuity, replace the part. Not all dryers have this part.

Defective Solenoids:
There are two; both are on top of the gas valve. Solenoids also supply voltage to the glow coil and are part of the electrical loop.
You'll need to remove them from the top of the gas valve by removing the entire gas valve assembly first. Take them off the gas valve body by removing the hold down cover plate or take the entire gas valve unit to your local appliance parts store and have the entire assembly and parts tested.

Defective Gas Valve: Remove the entire unit as an assembly. Take the entire assembly to your local appliance parts store for testing. Gas valves are not repairable. Replacement is the only option if defective. It's always possible there is another defective part or switch that is in line electrically between the timer and the glow coil that is defective, incorrectly set, etc., and not allowing current to flow through the entire circuit. You may also need to verify if there is electrical continuity through the entire wiring system.

Be sure to unplug the power first. Each wire should be checked through its entire length. Check each electrical connection, terminal and junction connection. Check for loose wires between the glow coil, gas valve and every switch.

A do-it-yourself person can do electrical tests and continuity tests on several of the parts often used in dryers. However, neither of these tests will provide certain proof the part being tested is actually functioning correctly. Do not rely solely on either test.

Keep in mind, the only positive proof that any part is functioning correctly, is to carefully remove the part or parts you suspect to be the potential culprit, and have the local appliance parts store person test parts to help make the final determination.

Q. We have a Kenmore electric dryer that no longer spins. I opened the top and found that the thin belt in the middle of the tub is broken in half. I cannot seem to determine how to go about putting a new belt on. Please help!

A. 1. UNPLUG UNIT!
2. Remove two Phillips head screws from the lint filter.
3. Take a screw driver (flat blade) or putty knife and pop the top by putting the screwdriver about two inches or so from each end of the dryer between the top and the front panel.
4. Take the top and let it fall back towards the wall.
5. On the top inside corner on each side of the front panel is a 5/16 screw. Remove it with a nut driver.
6. There are usually two or three wires connected to the front door switch. You can either remove them or leave them connected. Lift up on the door panel (not just the door) and set it aside.
7. Remove old belt.
8. Take new belt, and loop around dryer drum groove side touching the drum.
9. On the bottom right corner, underneath the drum, you will see an idler pulley. Align the belt with the old belt marks on the drum and then make sure the idler pulley is in its grooves on the base plate. Take the slack left in the belt and pull that loop under and through the roller of the pulley. Loop the belt around the motor shaft.
10. Now, the drum sits on at the back of the unit's two guide rollers. Make sure that the rollers are in the groove of the drum. Have someone hold the drum while you bring around the front panel. Most Kenmore dryers have slots at the bottom of the front panel that must fit onto the base plate. Make sure it's seated properly. Raise the drum up slightly as you put on the panel so it fits around the door opening.
11. Reconnect wires to the door switch.
12. Put the two 5/16 screws in each corner.
13. Put the two Phillips head screws back into the lint filter.

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